The History of Climbing Grades and Why They Are Subjective

The history of climbing grades is a captivating journey of evolution and growth spanning over a century. From the early days when climbers struggled to communicate their experiences to the present, where grading systems are more standardized, this history is rich with knowledge. Yet, the subjectivity of climbing grades adds an intriguing layer. Let's explore this captivating history, see what has endured, and understand why climbing grades remain subjective.

The History of Climbing Grades

Europe

In 1894, Fritz Benesch, a prominent Austrian mountaineer, introduced the first known climbing grading system, the "Benesch scale." This scale had seven levels of difficulty, arranged from easiest (VII) to hardest (I). As climbing challenges grew, grades 0 and 00 were added to accommodate them, reflecting the evolving complexity of climbing routes.

In 1923, German mountaineer Willo Welzenbach revised the scale, switching the order and compressing it to better reflect the intricacies of each grade. This change allowed for a more nuanced understanding of climb difficulty. By 1967, the "Welzenbach scale" became the formal UIAA (International Climbing and Mountaineering Federation) scale for rock climbing, using Roman numerals from I-VI, with "+" or "-" to refine each grade, providing climbers with a detailed assessment of route challenges.

The modern European climbing scale, known as the "Font scale," emerged in the 1960s. Named after Fontainebleau, France, this open-ended scale starts at one and increases in single-digit steps, using "+" to refine each grade. For grades 6 and above, capital letters "A," "B," or "C" are used for further refinement. The most challenging grade on the Font Scale is currently 9A. The Font scale uses capital letters for bouldering grades, while sport climbing grades use lowercase. The hardest sport climbing grade is currently 9c, showcasing the scale's adaptability to different climbing disciplines.

United States of America

In 1937, the United States adopted a version of the Welzenbach scale from the Sierra Club, which evolved into the YDS (Yosemite Decimal Scale) in the 1950s. This scale added a decimal to the class 5 grade, resulting in grades like "5.4," "5.5," or "5.6." In the 1960s, the scale was amended with letters "a," "b," "c," and "d" to further separate grades after "5.9," resulting in grades like "5.10a," "5.10b," "5.10c," and "5.10d." The highest YDS grade is currently 5.15d, reflecting the scale's ability to accommodate increasingly difficult climbs.

The YDS sometimes uses "+" or "-" to indicate the complexity of a grade. A "+" refers to the more challenging end, while a "-" refers to the easier end. If a guidebook doesn't include "+" or "-", it means the climb is in the middle of the grade, offering climbers a clear understanding of the climb's difficulty.

The U.S. didn't have a standard bouldering scale until 1991, when John "Verm" Sherman's guidebook introduced the "V-scale" for Hueco Tanks, Texas. This open-ended system starts at "V0" and increases with harder boulders. "VB" denotes "V-beginner," easier than "V0." The V-scale also uses "+" or "-" for further distinction. The most challenging grade on the V-scale is currently V17, highlighting the scale's capacity to classify extreme bouldering challenges.

Why Climbing Grades Are Subjective

Climbing grades are subjective due to various factors. A climber's height, ape index, climb style, or location can make a climb feel harder or easier. For instance, a taller climber might find it easier to reach past a crux, while a sit start might be tougher for a taller person. This variability underscores the personal nature of climbing experiences.

Sites like Mountain Project are valuable for climbers worldwide. They allow climbers to share their experiences and opinions on climbing grades. What feels like a V3 to one climber might feel like a V4 to another. On Mountain Project, climbers can voice their opinions, and if enough people agree, the grade may be adjusted. This feedback system helps maintain the accuracy and relevance of climbing grades, ensuring they reflect the collective experience of the climbing community.